The image of the modeling industry often conflicts with its reality. Television, magazines, and social media have sold the idea of the glamorous, globe-trotting runway star, but few see the long hours and hard work that lead up to that. In this episode of Vogue’s model documentary series, the young women in front of the camera get real about how the business has shaped their lives. The distinction between fashion’s fictions and its truths can be challenging—especially when the job requires 24/7 commitment. “I think there’s a misconception where people think that modeling is just about looking beautiful or having a certain look that people like,” shared Adesuwa Aighewi during a candid moment at the Vogue offices. “[In actuality] you have to be your business manager, you have to be your PR. You have to be a therapist; you have to be your mom and your dad, your own life coach.”
The multiple roles models now have to juggle are due in part to the changing nature of celebrity. In an era of multitasking stars whose creative endeavors have become fully-fledged brands, it isn’t enough to score a big cover or work with a key photographer. Entrepreneurship has become the expectation and new models—many of them teenagers and twentysomethings—are tasked with building online followings, collaborating with fashion heavyweights, and becoming a living commodity. “It’s draining, emotionally, physically, and mentally,” says Adut Akech. “That’s the side people don’t see. They only get to see the glamorous bit of it.”
Even the moments of mystique are underpinned today by real-world concerns. A decade into the industry-wide sea change that pushed fashion to acknowledge issues like diversity and size inclusivity, the power of those shifts is still being felt, particularly by those seeing themselves reflected in media for the first time. “Working in an environment that is all about beauty and how you look obviously it shapes you a little bit,” shared Dutch model Jill Kortleve. “I’m 26 now, so when I was reading magazines [growing up], it was all the same type of girl; white, blonde, tall, skinny. I was the opposite of that so there was no representation at all. I thought that was the norm, but obviously now that it’s changed, now that I know it can be different I see that this should have happened way before.” The sentiment is echoed by Somali-American star Ugbad Abdi, who realized she could enter the industry upon seeing the success of fellow Muslim model Halima Aden. “It made me feel that because she was doing it, I could do it too,” she says. “My little sister is five years old, and she was watching me on YouTube [now] she says she wants to walk the runway because she saw herself in me.”
Above, eight of fashion’s most prominent faces get real about what it is to work in fashion, and how images resonate long after they appear in a magazine.
Director: Shaina Danziger
DP: Marcus Burnett
Audio Recordist: Ana M Fernandez
Editor: Victoria Mortati
Color: Jaime O’Bradovich at Company 3
Sound: Ric Schnupp
